Vieques is an interesting mix of unspoiled, almost savage nature and manicured manmade beauty. The same dichotomy exists in the island's hotels and restaurants. As far as eateries go, you can enjoy an international gourmet meal or go rustic and chow down on some good comfort food. Here, we focus on this latter pursuit.
1. The Cheesecake Doghouse Cafe
Photo © Zain Deane
Right on the oceanfront boardwalk (or malecón) in the town of Esperanza, the unusually named Cheesecake Doghouse Café is little more than a shack with an outdoor porch. Inside this shack, however, you'll find some of the friendliest people you'll meet on the island. You'll also get a mean burger, really cheep beer, fajitas, and something called a "Michigan," which is a hot dog smothered in meat sauce. In the mornings, grab a Doghouse breakfast sandwich, stuffed with eggs, cheese, bacon, sausage, and ham, and served on fresh local bread (pan de agua). This place is true, cheap, basic beachfront dining. Oh, and ask about poker nights.
787-741-0341
787-741-0341
2. Bananas
Photo © Zain Deane
Any place with a plaque proclaiming itself a "Gin-U-Wine Sleazy Waterfront Dive" won't care a whole lot about what its customers are wearing when they walk through the door. Which is a good thing, because Banana's is a popular, rustic island eatery that is almost a rite of passage in Vieques. It was one of the first tourist stops on the island, and it's durability has much to do with its menu and reputation as a late-night hotspot.
Consider that the half-pound burgers have never been made with frozen patties, or that the fish sandwish tastes fresh and crispy, and you begin to see why Bananas remains a crowd favorite. The menu is limited, cheap, and offers great views of the ocean. At night, the second floor is where the party's at.
3. El Resuelve
Off Route 997, which links Esperanza and Isabel II, in the Barrio Destino, lies El Resuelve. Another shack, this one is miles away from the beach and has probably never produced a hot dog in its existence. Rather, El Resuelve serves up hearty platters of pure Puerto Rican home cooking. Grab an aluminum chair and take a look at whatever's on the menu for the day. Chicken with rice 'n beans, fingers foods, or basic fish dishes can be had here. Chow down to the beat of raggaetón and salsa booming from the radio.787-741-1427
4. El Patio
Located at 340 Antonio G Mellado Street in Isabel II, El Patio is typifies no-frills island eating. The menu is written daily on a small blackboard, and can run the gamut of Puerto Rican classics (they have great seafood and fish dishes), but it's nothing fancy; just tasty and simply prepared food. For the money, you won't find anything better, and the fulfilling breakfasts draw happy crowds from all over the island.787-741-6381
5. Panadería La Viequense
At 352 Antonio G Mellado Street in Isabel II is a longstanding island institution. This hugely popular bakery and deli is the place to go if you want to take your flip flops and your lunch with you to the beach. Known for their mammoth and creatively crafted sandwiches (like the namesake Viequense, which combines pork, turkey, ham, pepperoni and pepinillo) and baked goods (especially their pan de mallorca), the panadería gets mobbed on weekends.787-741-8213
