Beachfront Dining in Guayama at La Casa de los Pastelillos

At the end of the day, it's all about the pastelillo. These are crispy pastries stuffed with a variety of ingredients. They're common street food all over the island, but no one does them quite like La Casa de los Pastelillos, or "Home of the Pastelillos." For one, they make 'em large - 10 to 12 inches long. And they also make 'em delicious.

Pierre Beliard is a jovial guy ... and he has good reason to be. His pastelillos rule the beachfront in Guayama, a small and charming town along Puerto Rico's South Coast (the area known as Porta Caribe). On weekends, there's a good chance you'll find a line of people waiting to place their order at this rustic eatery, which is little more than open-air dining, a counter to place your order, hammocks on the beach and the Caribbean Sea just a few feet away.

The menu is actually quite extensive, and heavy on the seafood, with staples like Chillo Entero, paella, and garlic shrimp. The mofongos are popular with the locals. But by far the most sought after items are the pastelillos. A billboard on the right lists the various fillings (carrucho (conch), mixed seafood and mofongo with shrimp or lobster are the most popular choices). The ingredients are fresh, the recipes homemade, and the end result is a large, tasty snack or, if you get more than one, a cheap and terrific meal. Served fresh and hot, this is finger-licking Puerto Rican cooking at its best. For dessert, try one of their homemade flans, which come in vanilla, cheese, coffee, and other flavors.

After your meal, feel free to step onto the sand and find a spot on the beach. The sea is at your feet, and you might even find one of its residents swimming up to say hello. When I was there, I had the astounding luck of seeing two manatees wading near the shore. I can't guarantee that kind of show when you visit, but I can guarantee one (or more) seriously tasty pastelillo. No wonder Pierre Beliard looks so happy.