San Juan Neighborhoods: Guide to Puerta de Tierra

Introduction:

Puerta de Tierra is a small strip of land, but an important one. It connects Old San Juan to the rest of the island. Puerta de Tierra means "Earth Gate" because of the old city's five gates, this was the only one to face land. Today, it's home to most of Puerto Rico's government institutions, including the Capitol, or El Capitolio, the Supreme Court, and many federal agencies.

What does it have for tourists? Let's start with two excellent hotels; a few restaurants worth the price of the bill; two pretty cool late-night hangouts; a best-of-the-city beach; and a decent park. Not bad for a small strip of land.

Where to Stay:

There are only two viable lodging options in Puerta de Tierra; thankfully, they're pretty good ones.

• The Caribe Hilton is a sprawling facility with several restaurants, bars, a late-night lounge, a spa, and a fantastic kids program that makes it one of the most kid-friendly hotels in Puerto Rico.
• The stylish Normandie Hotel is built to resemble a ship to commemmorate the love of the hotel's builder for his wife (they met on a ship). Much better than "Titanic."

Where to Eat:

The Caribe Hilton has nine restaurants, but there are also a few off-the-beaten path options here.
• Palmeras, under renovation until December, offers amazing theme buffets and a Sunday brunch that includes lechón.
• El Escambrón provides outstanding local cooking right on the water's edge.[/link]
• El Charro, on San Agustín Street, is a neighborhood favorite. In fact, you can often find members of the House and Senate chowing down on the authentic Mexican fare here (787-724-6148).
• If it's a cheap burger you want, head to El Hamburger on Muñoz Rivera Avenue, a no-frills place with a mean grill that stays open late (787-721-4269).

What to See and Do:

• The star of the show in Puerta de Tierra is El Escambrón, a public beach or balneario. This is a Blue Flag Beach with full facilities, including lifeguards, parking, and crystalline waters.
• History buffs may want to schedule a guided tour of El Capitolio, modeled after the one in Washington, DC.
• Dancers and couples should check out Casa de España, an unparalleled example of Spanish architecture and home to a private function hall that holds Flamenco and Sevillana dances twice a week. $20 and $50 respectively buys you unlimited classes for the month; not a bad deal (787-724-1044).

Where to Shop:

Now here we run into a little trouble. Shopping in Puerta de Tierra is negligible, and it's easy to see why. Old San Juan and Condado can more than fill the need of the most avid shopper. If you're here to shop, I'd recommend heading to one of those neighborhoods.

Where to Go Out at Night:

Your nightlife options will be centered on the hotels:
• The Oasis Bar is a large, airy space overlooking the pool at the Caribe Hilton. It stays open until 3 on the weekends and features live music every night.
• The ultra cool N Lounge at the Normandie is a semicircular niche on what would be the "prow" of the hotel's ship design. It carries through the nautical theme, and it's outdoor seating area is a great place to soak in the night, if you can find a place among other eager Sanjuaneros and tourists.