Review of Aureola Restaurant in Old San Juan

In my humble opinion, the best authentic Puerto Rican cooking is found outside Old San Juan (traditional eateries like Don Tello in Cataño, and La Casita Blanca in Santurce, for example.) But when it comes to inventive twists on classic comida criolla, the walled city has several mad scientists at work churning out creative fusion and nouveau Rican fare. Aureola is a fine example of the latter. A casual, bright, and colorful spot, the warm yellow facade of the restaurant invites hungry patrons to come in and sample dishes that stretch far beyond the boundaries of typical island cooking, and venture deep into the Mediterranean and parts of Italy.

Aureola is located at 106 San Sebastián Street in Old San Juan, off Plaza San José. It's open every day except Monday from noon to midnight. Prices range from a satisfying burger under $10 to main dishes starting at $17. For reservations, call 787-977-0100.

While I love me some Puerto Rican home cooking, I also enjoy creative fusion, and Aureola manages to do this quite well. What it also does very well is offer something for everyone. If you're tired of the usually heavy and artery-clogging dishes at more traditional eateries, you'll appreciate their salads and ceviches. The entree menu isn't huge, but its diverse, with steak, seafood and pasta dishes; or you can get a homemade burger or gourmet pizza. And if you prefer smaller bites, the appetizer menu has some of the restaurant's best specialties.

Not everything on the menu has a Rican slant. The aforementioned ceviches, linguine arrabiata, and other fare have little to do with the island. But for those who want to sample local flavors, start with the homemade dumplings, served with a side of guava sauce, or the "bolitas de yucca," which are cassava fritters with a Puerto Rican sausage filling. Then again, for that fusion kick, go for the steak kebabs, which are artfully presented in a martini glass resting in a sauce of mango & apple chimichurri, or the tostones with caviar; of the appetizers we tried, the dumplings and kebabs were my favorites.

Aureola's entrees include many interesting flavor combinations. If you want something rich, try the chicken breast stuffed with escargots in a garlic cream sauce, and accompanied by a side of yautía mash. Closer to the Caribbean is the plantain-breaded mahi-mahi with a savory pico de gallo sauce. One of the specialties of the house is the Aureola Strudel, a pork loin stuffed with cranberries and raisins with a mango chutney accompaniment.

The pizzas are nothing to sneeze at either. With toppings like Cantimpalo sausage (a Spanish sausage made with paprika) and cheese, salmon and caviar, and shrimp, mozarella, blue cheese and pesto.

Whatever you eat, you might want to leave room for dessert. In fact, while it's not listed on the menu, ask if you can get the dessert sampler, which they will prepare upon request. That way, you can try four of Aureola's most popular sweet treats: the guava-mango mousse, midnight chocolate cake, homemade flan custard, and their special coco "kik" rico, a pudding made with coquito, Puerto Rico's version of egg nog.

The staff here is amiable and courteous, and the owners, who opened Aureola in 2008 (it was called Amadeus before), take genuine pride in their product. Throw in the comfy seating, solid cocktails, and terrific location in the old city, and Aureola has all the ingredients for a rewarding night out ... just don't expect to feast on mofongo while you're here.