Review of Lola Restaurant in Puerto Rico

For gourmet fusion cuisine that combines eclectic continental fare with Puerto Rican staples, Ponce's Lola is a fine choice in a modern setting.

Ponce is enjoying a culinary revival these days, and is learning to love a familiar culinary concept: Puerto Rican and modern fusion cuisine. Leading this renaissance is Lola, a self-styled bastion of "eclectic cuisine" in the heart of Puerto Rico's quaint second city.

Located at the handsome Ramada Ponce on the corner of Plaza las Delicias, Lola doesn't refer to a specific person; rather, it's meaning is a bit more abstract. My waiter told me it's all about discovering the passion, creativity, and taste - or the "Lola," in each of us.

If self-discovery goes through the menu, I was happy to undertake the effort. Lola's menu speaks to its emphasis on blending modern and 'Rican. Start with Chef Ángel Santiago's soup of the day, which typically features local yams and roots. I tried the cream of yautia, a root with an earthy flavor that tasted rich and dense. The chef's use of celery brought out a unique and dense flavor to the soup, making for a hearty appetizer. Other choices include the bolitas de maduro, or plantain balls mixed with chorizo, or Lola egg rolls stuffed with beef and sweet plantain.

From there, I sampled the special of the day, a perfectly prepared filet of seared and baked seabass with a side of tarragon-based bechamel sauce and mixed greens. If that's not on the menu, the chillo frito, or fried, whole red snapper (a Puerto Rican specialty) was delicious and crispy, with a smoky flavor enhanced by the creole sauce.

Even the mofongo featured a Lola twist, arriving bathed in a demi-glaze of bone stock and tamarind. Finally, for dessert, the passion fruit flan was dense and delicious.

The decor at Lola matches the menu: contemporary, colorful and vibrant. With a warm, friendly staff, an accomplished chef at the helm, and can't-beat-it location in downtown Ponce, I'm not surprised to hear it's among the top eateries in the city these days.