Review of St. Germain Bistro & Cafe in Old San Juan

St. Germain Bistro & Cafe is located at 156 Sol Street on the corner of Cruz Street. It's a bit off the beaten path, but well worth the two-block walk from Plaza de Armas. The restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. On Sunday there's a brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and a Crepe and Wine dinner from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. For more information, call 787-725-5830, or visit their website.

The pleasant red-hued two-story building on an unassuming corner of Old San Juan isn't the place you'd expect to find a wonderfully light, casual, and altogether different dining experience. The place looks like a private residence, and was in fact the last home of Pedro Albizu Campos, President of Puerto Rico's Nationalist Party and a strong advocate for independence. (Of course, not everyone wants Puerto Rico to be independent. It's an unusual political status quo).

But you can skip the politics here. From a culinary perspective, St. Germain is miles away from the Caribbean, and closer to the Mediterranean seaside. In this city, it makes for a refreshing alternative to the norm.

One of the reasons I love St. Germain is its focus on being greener, healthier and generally more conscious about its footprint on the planet. For example, because the city doesn't pick up recycling, the restaurant gathers and delivers their recyclables to the recycling center, on their own dime. Their produce is bought daily at the farmer's market. And they have a wonderful menu of homemade beverages to reduce their dependency on bottles and cans. The bistro has earned the "Healthy and Tasty Restaurant" award from Natural Awakenings, a green initiative.

There's a reason I listed St. Germain on my best lunch spots in the city. Fresh pitas, gourmet salads, hearty sandwiches and a fresh quich of the day aren't all that easy to find in Old San Juan. But that's the specialty at St. Germain. The Arabian pita I tried on my last visit - stuffed with pesto chicken, grape tomatoes and hummus - was tasty and light, with simple, clean flavors. The tomato and spinach quiche of the day took me straight back to Paris, served with a mesclun side salad and a hunk of French baguette. The bistro also has what is probably the best salad menu in all of Puerto Rico, with combinations like the Polita (spinach, mango, avocado, grape tomato, pear and cilantro) and Priscila (mixed greens, salmon, walnut, tomato and mandarin orange) competing with traditional options like Cobb and Nicoise.

As for those homemade drinks, choose from a menu of fresh juices, ginger lemonade, and cocktails including ginger margarita and mojito and Leslie's special sangria. Also top off your meal with an cup of excellent locally grown "Cuatro Sombras" coffee.

For dessert, you'd have to drag me away from the Nutella-filled croissant, but the warm apple pie and rum & amaretto cake are nothing to sneeze at.

Finally, the atmoshpere at St. Germain invites you to settle in at the banquette at one end of the bistro and enjoy a welcome break from the rest of the city. The staff is welcoming, pleasant and courteous, and the simple white walls, adorned with black and white photos, sets the tone for the restaurant: light, cheery and totally unpretentious. The ceiling fans (no A/C) add a nice breeze even on a hot day.

Don't get me wrong; I love pure Puerto Rican cooking. But if you want traditional Puerto Rican food, don't come anywhere near this place. Instead, head to one of these stalwarts of comida criolla. Come here to eat well, eat healthy, and enjoy a small slice of Mediterranean goodness under the Caribbean sun.