Review of Bodega Chic Restaurant and Lounge in Old San Juan

Bodega Chic is located on Calle Cristo #51 in Old San Juan, between Plaza San José and the Catedral de San Juan. It's open Tuesday to Saturday from 6 pm to midnight and Sunday from 11:30 to 5 for brunch. For more information, call 787-722-0124.

Why don't have a place like this in my neighborhood? The moment I first discovered Bodega Chic (or rather, the moment Leslie introduced it to me on her terrific Flavors of San Juan tour), I fell in love with it. The unassuming spot in the heart of the walled city has a laid back, funky atmosphere that's unpretentious, inviting and casual. It's the kind of place I'd hang out in every weekend if it was only closer to home. It's trendy and cool precisely because it tries not to be trendy and cool. Instead, it focuses on what matters: cold beer, great drinks and truly tasty food.

Oh, those fries. If the folks at Bodega Chic could only prepare a bucket full of them, served with a soup-bowl full of their homemade garlic mayo, I'd happily retreat to a dark corner of the bar gorge in hedonistic bliss. Of course, you don't have to stick to French fries here; not when you have a chef like Christophe Gourdain, who trained under no less than legendary chef Jean-Georges Vonegerichten (any New Yorker will know that name).

The menu at Bodega Chic sticks to its French-Algerian roots and dips only a little finger into the Puerto Rican basket of ingredients and flavors. This is the place to come for classic hangar steak with sauteed potatoes and haricot verts, or string beans; outstanding fresh mussels served in one of three styles: Provençal, Marniere, or curry sauce; and a steak frites of grilled strip loin with peppercorn sauce and those yummy fries. For an appetizer, you can't go wrong with the baked goat cheese "croustillant" with basil, bell pepper and eggplant caviar, a rich and flavorful start to your meal.

If you must have a bit of Latin-Caribbean flavor in your food, kick off with a mussel and calamari ceviche, and feast on the roasted chicken breast with a curry-banana sauce and mashed potato.

The dessert menu is small but likely to leave you more than satisfied. The crème brûlée, warm chocolate cake, and profiteroles are as good as any you'll find on the island.

You'll also want to be here for brunch. A prix-fixe bargain at $15, it includes your choice of eggs (Benedict, Florentine or Scandinavian), Croque Monsieur or French toast, or a two-ingredient omelet; fresh orange juice, mimosa or Bloody Mary; and coffee or tea. (The only reason it doesn't make my list of best breakfast spots in the city is because it's only available on Sundays.)

Even though it closes at midnight, there's a reason I listed Bodega Chic among my favorite Bars in San Juan. Last time I was here, we had a Mojito demonstration that more than measured up to any other spot in the city, and the Medalla beers are kept nicely chilled. Beyond the drinks, the small bar has an intimate feel that invites conversation, and anytime you can complement your drink with an order of those fries ... okay okay, I'll stop harping on about the fries. But the point remains, if you don't want to dine here (and why wouldn't you), hop into the adjacent bar and make yourself at home.

Delicious, authentic food, a chill vibe, and a welcome change from typical Puerto Rican fare makes Bodega Chic one of my favorite stops in the old city. I just wish it was closer to home.