Each of San Juan's neighborhoods has a distinct identity, but perhaps none resonates as strongly with local as does Santurce. This is not because Sanjuaneros don't appreciate the beauty of Old San Juan, the hopping nightlife in Isla Verde, or the excellent shopping in Condado; they do. But none of those neighborhoods gives you the down-home, local flavor of true Puerto Rico that Santurce provides.

This was a fun guide to write, because most people who visit San Juan don't visit or linger in Santurce. After all, there's no beach here, no casino, and no 500-year-old monument. It's not a flashy destination. However, there are excellent Puerto Rican restaurants, museums and other cultural centers, and a smattering of the best local designers on the island. More than that, there's a bohemian neighborhood with pockets of culture and heritage that make Santurce much-loved, for locals and for tourists who know where to go.